1. You need to break in the string and harness system on your bow before it is ready for hunting. Take roughly 300 to 400 shots first and then soak the string and harnesses in water. You can dip them in a bathtub or spray them down with water. Soak them good. A couple of days later leave your bow in a really warm (but not too hot) place. The backseat of your car for a couple of hours on a sunny day might work (As long as you aren’t doing it in Arizona in the summer time) Keep the windows rolled up. The purpose of this exercise is to melt the wax forcing it out of the string and also to cause the individual fibers to stretch – in effect causing the string and harnesses to take a set. Now you can tune and sight in.
Some of the non-stretch fiber string materials do not require nearly as much work to settle in. (Both BCY and Brownell make a non stretch string material. I use BCY’s 450 plus with great results.)

2. Achieving accuracy with broadheads requires two things: a well tuned bow and a quiver full of well tuned arrows. If your bow is tuned but your arrows aren’t you will get a group that has the same approximate center as your field point groups but will be much larger. If your bow is not tuned but your arrows are tuned you will get a group with a different center than you have with field points but the group may be close to the same size as your field point group. If both are untuned you will get a very wide dispersion of shots.

To achieve perfect hunting accuracy, you need to tune each arrow individually. Make sure you shoot every single arrow with the broadhead attached to see if it hits with the group. I like to use slow set epoxy on my insert then I spin each arrow in my palm with a broadhead attached. If I feel even the slightest wobble, I rotate the broadhead and do the test again. If that doesn’t work I try a different broadhead.If that still doesn’t work I set that arrow aside.