I shoot Easton AC Super Slim 400 arrows fletched with 2.5-inch vanes having 7 degrees of helical offset and tipped with 100-grain broadheads. My arrow specifications are the result of many years of intense competition and demanding bowhunting. An entire summer 3-D season or fall hunting season often comes down to just one or two shots - one arrow for all the marbles. After investing all that time and money, I will only trust the very best arrows on the market.

I can back up all my arrow choices with test data from both formal and informal sources. As I said, I didn’t come by my arrow selection without considerable time and testing. Here is why I prefer Easton’s aluminum carbon composite arrows.

WIND DRIFT

AC super Slim arrows are roughly .265 inches in diameter. Compare that to roughly .375 inches for a popular 2413 aluminum arrow or the large diameter carbon arrow shafts. From the side, a 30 inch Super Slim has a side surface area of 7.95 square inches. The 2413 has a side surface area of roughly 11.25 square inches – 1.4 times more than the Super Slim.

In my hands a smaller diameter shaft requires less fletching to stabilize it’s flight. Smaller fletching reduces the side surface area even further. When you shoot small diameter carbon arrows in a crosswind, they exhibit less sideways drift than larger diameter arrows. This is because there is less surface area against which the wind can bear.

By reducing wind drift under challenging conditions, you make your arrows more forgiving of aim point errors and changes in weather conditions. In other words, if you forget to account for wind speed, these smaller diameter arrows are likely to bail you out under typical bowhunting conditions.

The difference is substantial. By switching from large diameter aluminum arrows to small diameter carbon composite or all-carbon arrows with smaller fletching, you can literally cut your wind drift by more than one half.

Wind drift is a larger concern for western hunters than for eastern hunters. However, even in wooded settings (where trees partially break the wind) you need to allow for some arrow drift when the crosswind exceeds 5 to 10 mph. A small diameter arrow is more likely to save the shot if you forget this last second adjustment.

DOWNRANGE ARROW SPEED

In 1993, AFC Carbon Arrows of Chatfield, MN (the company is no longer selling arrows) completed an independently verified test of penetration and downrange loss of arrow speed. The tests compared the qualities of both small diameter carbon arrows and typical aluminum arrows of the same weight. Though the testing did not include ACC arrows, the results are still enlightening because the carbon arrows used in the test were close in diameter to AC Super Slims.

Due to friction with the air, arrows slow down the farther they get from the bow. The greater the surface area of an arrow, the faster it slows down. At 40 yards, AFC’s testing showed that the carbon arrow lost 7% of its initial speed while a 2312 (of the same weight) lost 8.4% of its initial speed. The test only went out to 40 yards, but I know from my own testing that the difference between aluminum and carbon arrows begins to increase even faster beyond 40 yards. This is roughly the amount of difference you would find between Super Slims and popular aluminum or large diameter carbon arrows. Granted, this is not a huge difference, but this is a tough game and I’ll take every advantage I can get.

IMPROVED PENETRATION

The carbon shaft in the test cited in the previous section weighed 493 grains. It penetrated more than 40% deeper into both Ethafoam and silica sand than the aluminum 2312 (which weighed 494 grains) against which it was compared. That is an astonishing advantage for the smaller diameter arrow.

I also recently studied data from a test conducted by Outdoor writer Bill Winke and his father. They designed the test to measure broadhead penetration, but it also shed some light on penetration issues related to arrow selection. The carbon shafts were internal component models including the Beman ICS Hunter 340 at 319 grains (without the head) and Carbon Express 400 with 3 grains per inch weight tubes at 389 grains total (without the head). The aluminum shaft was again the 2312 this time at 367 grains (without the head).

The data revealed that both carbon arrows did measurably better than the aluminum (even though one weighed considerably less) penetrating roughly 15 to 25% deeper depending on the arrow and the backstop.

Diameter appears to be the greatest reason that carbon shafts do so well in these tests. As the diameter goes down so does the surface area - reducing friction and resistance as the shaft slips into the target. The outside diameters of the two shafts tested in 1993 were .233 inch for carbon and .360 inch for the 2312. As I already stated, AC Super Slims have an outside diameter of roughly .265 inches.

Some will argue that any testing in solid testing media will never simulate live animal tissue. I can’t argue with them. But the numbers and my own experiences are so compelling that they can’t be ignored. It is my firm position that smaller diameter carbon arrows such as the Super Slims penetrate better than large diameter arrows of the same weight.

On a side note, some carbon arrow experts believe that the stiffness of carbon arrows aids in their penetration advantage. They have the ability to dampen out vibration quickly on impact, possibly directing more kinetic energy down the centerline of the shaft where it does the most good. While I don’t have any direct testing to support this view, I have found a different reason to prefer stiff arrows. My arrow groups tighten up measurably when I shoot arrows that are slightly “stiff” for my draw weight and draw length. It is certainly worth considering this option if you use a release aid.

FLETCHINGS PRODUCE STABILITY

When you stuff arrows into a small, shafts-touching circle in your backyard target, you increase your confidence and your readiness for the hunt, but you actually diminish the quality of your arrows. Repeatedly smashing and slapping your arrows together in the target will cause weak spots, slight bends and skewed nocks. Often, these disturbances are minor and not evident to the eye, yet they cause inconsistent accuracy.

An arrow needs to spin to reduce the affect of these small inconsistencies. It’s important to note that even arrows equipped with field points will plane if they come out of the bow other than dead straight. You need a high degree of helical offset to stabilize your arrows quickly and keep them from wandering. I apply the most helical offset my fletching jig will allow while still creating proper adhesion. Easton’s experts recommend five to seven degrees, for most situations. Few bowhunters carry a protractor in their tackle box, so just max out your jig and you will achieve the desired results.

Large doses of helical offset once created tuning problems because the fletching inevitably contacted the rest and kicked the arrow off line. Today’s drop-away arrow rests eliminate this problem and I heartily recommend them with aggressive helical fletched arrows.

CONSISTENT CONSTRUCTION

So far, I have built my case for small diameter carbon arrows. Now I’m going to take my argument one step farther and show you why I choose Easton’s AC Super Slim arrows over all other carbon shafts.

I realize that aluminum carbon composite arrows are among the most expensive arrows on the market but they are well worth it. The processes used to make ACC’s (and Beman Carbon Metal Matrix shafts, too for that matter) are much more painstaking than those used to make other carbon arrow styles. This lengthy process demands respect among serious bowhunters – and a higher price tag.

Easton starts with a small aluminum core tube having a .007-inch wall thickness. Easton has a very precise process for straightening aluminum tubes (arrow shafts) and this one is straight to within +/- .002 inch. This makes ACC’s among the straightest shafts on the market.

After straightening the core tube, the technicians apply a layer of longitudinal carbon fibers over the tube. Carbon cannot be straightened, but since the carbon covers a super-straight aluminum tube, no straightening is needed. The finished arrow takes the straightness of the aluminum tube but possess the strength, stiffness and durability of carbon. ACC shafts (and all other aluminum carbon composite shafts) have the potential to possess the best attributes of carbon and the best attributes of aluminum.

A very tight straightness tolerance is just one small aspect of the ACC and AC Super Slam’s consistency. Because of the core tube and ability to grind the outside wall of the shaft with a center-less grinder, these arrows have very precise wall thickness and diameter measurements. There is no seam or egg-shape to these carbon arrows as can occur with some carbon models. You don’t have to float them in your bathtub to find the “high spot” or roll them on a table like you would the tip section of a fly rod blank to find the stiff side. There isn’t a high spot or a stiff side; they are perfectly uniform - the most uniform arrows on the market that are still practical for bowhunters.

ACC’s give you consistent straightness, consistent weight (within +/- .5 grains per dozen) and consistent spine. Not only that, but they accept internal components and exhibit all the best qualities of improved penetration, reduced wind drift and increased down range velocity.

I own a shooting machine and have done quite a bit of arrow testing. The AC Superslims and ACCs group consistently better out-of-the-box than any other arrow I have experimented with. That’s why I shoot Easton AC super Slim arrows.

Sidebar: Number Your Arrows

Arrows take a beating when you practice with them for several weeks. They slap and clatter together until their straightness and spine tolerances degrade. The small variations between arrows that result from common wear and tear will influence your accuracy.

Start with a dozen arrows. Ideally, they are brand new, but if you can’t afford to buy a fresh dozen, at least spring for six new shafts. Number each arrow. Start with a clean target and put field points on your arrows. Shoot all of them at the paper at your maximum accurate range. Don’t pay any attention to the numbers on the arrows before you shoot them. In fact, make a conscious effort not to look at them so you won’t bias the test. When you go to pull the arrows, write the corresponding number next to each hole.

Shoot every arrow at least six times and then look at the target to see what patterns are forming. You will likely have an arrow or twothat consistently fly wide of the mark. Typically, I find that the vast majority of my arrows fly close to the same hole though a few might hit too far from the center to be acceptable. This is where a shooting machine really earns its keep. Target shooters, in particular, will benefit from this level of arrow-to-arrow consistency. However, bowhunters will too when the differences uncovered are great enough. Obviously, I rotate the nock on the loose grouping arrows and shoot them again until they come in to the group. If I can’t get them to group, I pull them out of my quiver before the season.

Sidebar: Comparing Arrow Drift to Wind Speed and Direction

As a rough indication of wind speed and direction, drop a handful of two to three-inch tufts of grass at arm’s length from roughly the height of your belly button. For every 10 mph of wind speed, the clippings will drift three feet before hitting the ground. It is a rough gauge, but this indicator will serve as a reference to compare your practice conditions to your hunting conditions. Also, if the wind is not a direct crosswind it won’t cause the arrow to drift as much as if it were perpendicular to the direction of the shot. Account for this both when practicing and when shooting at game.

As I already stated, small diameter arrows with modest fletching drift less in a crosswind than larger diameter arrows, but they do drift, and you need to account for wind drift when confronted with a shot across windswept, open settings.

Sidebar: The Proper Balance Point

Your arrow’s balance point will affect its trajectory and stability inversely. For example, an arrow that is “tip light” will remain a little more level in flight and will actually plane or sail along a flatter trajectory than one of the same weight but with a heavier nose. But, tip light arrows don’t correct quite as quickly when they come out of the bow. The closer the arrow’s center of gravity (balance point) gets to its measured center the less stable the arrow will be in flight.

The AC Super Slim arrows that I prefer balance very well with a 100 grain point and 2 1/2-inch vanes, producing a balance point that is right in the ideal sweet spot for a hunting arrow of roughly 10% forward of center.

The hunting season can be hard on a bow. Fresh nicks, scrapes and dings show up on the riser and limbs. But, in truth, there is not much that can go wrong with the big hardware. Accessories are the problem and of all the accessories, the ones that receive the least attention are the string and harnesses. They can stretch in a hot vehicle, the serving can separate and slip and the string can twist rendering your peep sight worthless. For all the time we put into choosing and fine-tuning sights and rests, we put almost no time or thought into choosing and setting up our string and harnesses. Yet they have just as much influence on our final success as any other accessory.

WHY CHOOSE CUSTOM

Top bow manufacturers have come a long way in string construction and most are satisfactory. Still, many of the top archers make their own strings and harnesses so they can control all the variables, but that requires a steep learning curve, proper tools and time; and that’s just too much for the average bowhunter. A better solution is to pay for a well-made custom string and harness system. I made my own strings for years. However, the past few seasons I have depended on the quality and reliability of systems from companies like Winner’s Choice.

Well-made custom strings don’t twist so my peep sight always comes back the same every time. The good ones are also pre-stretched so they don’t creep and the center serving is well-applied so it doesn’t separate or slide up the string. Eliminating these variables makes your string and harness system nearly foolproof. Unless you nick the fibers with a broadhead or sharp rock, your impact point won’t change during a tough season.

SELECTING THE MATERIAL

When you get your bow from the manufacturer, you don’t typically have any choice in the material that makes up the string and harness. The manufacturer decides that for you, for better or for worse. But, when you buy a custom string you can choose the material. I like 8125 from BCY because it is lightweight (fast), reasonably quiet and very durable. When pre-stretched, it has very good length retention under a wide range of conditions. Another good choice is Brownell’s new TS-1.

CONCLUSION

Your bowstring and harness system are the most overlooked accessories on your bow, yet they are among the most important. If anything happens to them, you are guaranteed to miss the next shot. And problems usually catch you by surprise. Replace your string and harness system now with one that won’t twist or stretch and be sure that your bow will stay accurate all season.

A raw wind pushed up whitecaps on the open bay behind me as cold rain mixed with snow splattered on my parka and stung my face with wind-driven force. It was hardly hospitable, but it was seasonal weather for Quebec in early October. I spent little time thinking about comfort given the caribou convoy that flowed past my rocky hideout. The trail they followed was a knee-deep rut in the tundra worn down by hundreds of thousands of cloven hooves since the last ice age. Every animal was making fast tracks for the winter range, and try as I might; it became readily apparent that I wasn’t going to stop them or even slow them down. Short of my jumping in the trail, there was no way any of those bulls were going to pull up and risk a rear-end collision from a head full of antlers. If I was going to shoot it would have to be at a fast walking target.

At the pace they were traveling (much faster than a man’s top walking speed) even the 20-yard shot I faced would require plenty of lead. Moving my bow arm to keep pace with the biggest bull, I held the top pin in the center of his shoulder and squeezed the trigger. The bow limbs thudded forward in an explosion of mist and the bull’s next stride brought his chest squarely in front of the arrow. My first caribou was quickly down.

Moving game is just one of four tough shooting challenges that I’ve encountered often while hunting everything from farmland whitetails to high mountain sheep. Mastering these four shots will make you a better bowhunter.

MOVING GAME

For bowhunters who pursue rutting whitetails, moving game is a common occurrence. The bucks seem to walk nonstop. The perfect broadside, standing shot squarely in the middle of a shooting lane is a dream. What you need is a plan for handling reality. Whether you take these shots or don’t take them, that isn’t the point. You need to at least think it through so you’ll know what to do when a nice buck walks past your stand this fall.

Let’s consider the challenge. Arrows get to the target a lot slower than most bowhunters may think. Even a shaft traveling 280 feet per second at a range of 20 yards will permit a walking animal to cover nearly a foot from the “now” command to impact. In other words, moving shots aren’t a snap and even close ones shouldn’t be taken for granted.

A standing shot is my goal every time I draw my bow, so I stop every animal I possibly can. But, if the situation doesn’t permit the ideal shot I have a strict set of conditions that occasionally allows me to take them on the move. My maximum distance for such a shot is 25 yards, and then only when the animal is walking fairly slowly, roughly equal to a normal human walking pace. Beyond 25 yards I try to stop everything, and any animal moving faster than a walk gets whistled at regardless of distance.

Know your limitations and hold that line even when tempted to step across it. Your personal shot selection criteria can’t be based on the size of the animal, or the number of days you’ve been hunting or what your friends have shot. It has to be consistent with your proven abilities. It is important that you practice moving shots until you’re totally comfortable with them. If you aren’t familiar with the timing involved or have never practiced moving shots you should forget about them until you’re better prepared.

Technique: The best way to make a walking shot is to swing with the animal and squeeze the trigger as you keep the pin a prescribed distance ahead of his vitals – wingshooters call it sustained lead. I find that a sustained lead of 4 to 6 inches is about right when shooting 20 yards. Unfortunately, this technique doesn’t work well when you have narrow shooting lanes. It is too difficult to time both the animal and a small opening when swinging the bow. Instead, aim for the opening and quickly pull the trigger when the middle of the animal’s shoulder appears beyond the pin. The proper lead for me seems to be about eight to 12 inches.

UPHILL, DOWNHILL, SIDE HILL AND ELEVATION

It had been a long, hard 14 days and my Alaska non-resident dall sheep tag was still in my back pocket. Below me, across a gaping chasm, lay the ram of a lifetime and my last opportunity of the season. It was really the last opportunity for me for years. Success or failure hinged on how well I could remember my high school geometry.

I knew I couldn’t just hold my pin a couple of inches low and let the arrow go. The true horizontal distance to the ram, not the line of sight distance, was the number I dearly needed. I pulled three arrows from my quiver to form a right triangle with the hypotenuse and vertical side of the triangle of equal length. I pointed the hypotenuse at the ram and added the bottom leg. The length of the bottom leg of the triangle was about 75% that of the hypotenuse and vertical side. Multiplying .75 by the distance indicated by the rangefinder gave me the true horizontal distance.

It takes a serious leap of faith the first time you intentionally choose the “wrong” pin on a steep slope, but I had done this enough in my life to know it was going to work. When the bow went off the arrow hit the ram solidly . That ram is one of my most cherished trophies for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the memory of the shot I had to pull off to get him.

If you hunt in rough terrain you’ll almost certainly face a shot with a significant elevation change some day. Understanding the necessary adjustments is the key to making these shots routine.

Uphill and downhill: The real distance of any shot is the horizontal distance, not the line of sight distance. Horizontal distance is always less than line of sight on angled shots, so whether you’re shooting uphill or downhill you have to aim low to keep from missing high.

For example, when shooting up or down a 40-degree slope you must use your 30-yard pin when your rangefinder says 40 yards. Most bowhunters wouldn’t allow for this much compensation. If the slope flattens to 20 degrees, treat a 40-yard shot as if it were slightly over 35 yards. Because your bow is already sighted in based on arrow speed, these numbers aren’t affected significantly by speed.

If you expect to take uphill and downhill shots on slopes steeper than 20 degrees you should seriously consider buying the new rangefinder from Opti-Logic that automatically compensates for shot angle.

Sidehill shots: If you lean your bow to the left you’ll shoot to the left and if you lean your bow to the right you’ll shoot to the right. To achieve perfect left and right accuracy you need to align your bow exactly the same on every shot – perfectly vertical.

Unless you shoot with a bubble level, you probably use the horizon or the ground between you and the target as a subconscious reference when aligning your bow. You may not even think about it, but I bet you do it on every shot. This may work great in Kansas, but not if your dream hunt takes you to the mountains of Colorado. Under these conditions nearly everyone will be influenced by the angled terrain and they will tend to align their bow improperly and miss to the down-slope side.

There are two solutions. First, you can use nearby tree trunks as a form of vertical reference (unfortunately, they won’t always be vertical and may not even exist where you’re hunting). Second, practice with and use a bubble level until it becomes an ingrained and automatic part of your pre-shot routine.

Elevation changes: If you sight your bow in at sea level and then hunt 9,000 feet higher you are sure to shoot high. Gravitational pull decreases the farther you are from the earth’s core and the air also gets thinner. Both factors contribute to slightly flatter arrow flight.

You can try to remember to aim low - during the excitement it is very easy to forget – or you can turn down your bow’s draw weight to reduce arrow speed. Of course, this will cost you some kinetic energy. I guess you could also make up a set of arrows that are a little heavier than those you sight in with at sea level and use the heavy ones for your mountain hunting. You may still have to make slight draw weight adjustments (up or down) once you get to camp. Or you can just re-sight once you get to camp.

CLOSE SHOTS FROM A TREE

One of my friends recently told me about a slam dunk shot he missed on a Boone & Crockett class whitetail. Broadside and under 20 yards, my friend took the shot for granted. Bill is usually a pretty good shot at game and for him to miss such an easy poke was shocking – I’m sure more so to him than me. He later admitted that he never picked a spot and simply pulled the trigger when the pin was close – possibly even peeking at the moment of release. It was a hurried and sloppy shot that cost him one of the biggest bucks he’s ever had in his sights.

It’s easy to take the short ones for granted, but they require just as much thought and preparation as the long ones. You may not be worried about missing a 5-yarder, but if you don’t pick a spot and concentrate hard you may hit the animal poorly and bring on a tough tracking job. Treat the short shots with the same respect you give long shots and you will never be disappointed.

I hunt from the ground more than I do from trees and consequently I have to practice tree stand shots a few days each fall before heading for whitetail country. It takes a little getting used to. Few bowhunters ever practice enough from stand height to get comfortable bending at the waist rather than simply dropping their bow arm – a bad habit that results in poor shots at close range.

SHOOTING THROUGH HOLES

I had never seen the bull, but my buddy told me he was a bruiser and because he hadn’t drawn a tag he told me right where to find him. Now I was keeping pace with the herd using the occasional sounds of their hooves on rock and his huge rack bumping through the tangle of trees. For the better part of the morning I hung on their downwind flank, waiting for an opportunity. Finally, the bull stopped to rub a juniper tree and I dove in, quickly closing to 12 yards.

Even at that distance all I could see were his legs and the movement of the tree branch. His frenzied rubbing was enough distraction to permit me to move around quite a bit. Finally I realized that if I got down on the ground and then canted my bow slightly to get even lower I could find an opening to his vitals. I had to shoot under a branch 3 feet in front of my bow and even though it obscured my 20 yard sight pin I knew the arrow would go under it. The arrow flew clean and in a flash was through the bull’s chest. I was more than happy to treat my friend to a big steak dinner. That bull is one of my biggest with a Pope & Young net score of 372 inches.

It’s common to face shots through openings when hunting. If the hole is close to the animal it generally presents little more than a mental obstacle. When you focus on the spot you want to hit, everything else will disappear. But, when the opening is either very close to you or midway between you and the target you may have a real problem. Your line of sight is not the same as your arrow’s trajectory and that fact is the reason many bowhunters end up with deflections. They take a quick look and see nothing between them and buck’s chest so they shoot. That’s when their arrow hits a branch above the sight line and deflects into the next county.

It takes an extremely composed bowhunter to recognize potential obstacles that are not in his line of sight. A simple step added to your pre-shot routine should help you avoid some deflections. When deciding if you have a clear shot, take an extra moment to look close to the bow for any obstacles and look farther out above your intended opening. If there is a branch framing the bottom of the opening a few feet away or one framing the top of the opening at some mid-range distance, you had better take an extra few moments to decide if your arrow is likely to deflect.

If you have the time, you can use your sight pins for this task. Simply place the proper pin on the target and look at the pins above it. If they are clear, the arrow will not hit anything. By the same token, you can use your pins to determine if you can shoot over a midrange obstacle. Again, place the proper pin on the target (or, if the target is obscured, hold it where the target would be). Estimate the range to the obstacle and look at the pin that corresponds with that distance. If it is above the obstacle your arrow will loop over it and hit the target.

It is not enough to simply realize that bowhunting can at times present some tough shots; you have to take the time right now to prepare for them. By learning to handle four common, but challenging shots you will fill more tags and become a more ethical bowhunter in the process.

Sidebar: Make a Wind Table

I’ve had to aim as much as a foot off an animal on the upwind side just to make a clean kill in a moderate crosswind. Without plenty of practice under these same conditions my success rate on windy days would be poor. The key is simply to know how much your arrow will drift in various wind conditions. Set up to shoot with a direct crosswind on several windy days and jot down how much the arrow drifts depending on wind speed. You may have to guess at the speed, but that’s OK because you will also be guessing when you are hunting. Hopefully, your guesses will at least be consistent.

I recently saw a good indicator of wind speed being promoted in a different sport. If you drop dry grass tufts or clippings from a height of three feet, for every 10 mph of wind speed they will drift three feet before hitting the ground. It is pretty rough, granted, but this indicator may serve as a basic reference.

The amount an arrow drifts depends on weight, diameter, speed, broadhead style and size and fletching style and size. Therefore, it is up to you to make the table for your specific set of conditions. However, as a starting point an average hunting arrow will drift about 8 inches at 40 yards with a direct 20 mph crosswind. Realize that when the wind is at an angle to your shot it won’t have as much effect.

Sidebar: Accessories to Help You Shoot Better

Rangefinder: This is possibly the most important of all accessories that are not attached to your bow. Knowing the exact distance of the shot is critical on any shot past about 25 yards. This past season I tested the Leica LRF 800 and found it to be very solid. I like the lighted through-lens readout that made for easy use in shadows and low light conditions.

Drop-away arrow rest: A good drop-away rest serves two purposes. First, it gets out of the way of the fletching, and second it picks up the arrow and positions it perfectly for the shot. Last season I used the Golden Key Futura Mirage and was very impressed. I didn’t have to worry about keeping the arrow on the rest during the last stages of a stalk or when sitting in tree stands – the Mirage scooped it up flawlessly every time.

Low stretch bowstring: One overlooked accessory that should be on every bowhunter’s list is a low-stretch bowstring. If the string stretches during a hunt the bow can change impact point dramatically. Also, a string that stretches is much more prone to show signs of serving separation than one that doesn’t. I’ve been testing the new Formula 8125 string material from BCY and found it to be easy to work with and very stable.

Bow silencing products: The ability to make a fast bow quiet will improve your score on string jumping game. In fact, with this new generation of quiet bows bowhunting may cease to be a one-shot sport. I load my bow up with all the products in the Sims Vibration Laboratory catalog each fall to remove shock and vibration from my bow and to make it super quiet.

String loop release aid: Releases made expressly for use with string loops tend be easier to load and, because of their short heads, permit you to switch to a loop without having to shorten the draw length on your bow. There are a number of good string loop releases but I like the time-tested Fletchunter from Jim Fletcher and the One Shot from Carter Enterprises. Both load fast and have great triggers.

Wrist sling: While wrist slings are certainly inconvenient when a fast shot is needed, they should still be standard issue on all hunting bows. The sling eliminates the fear of dropping the bow on a proper surprise release permitting you to shoot with a relaxed hand – a key to good accuracy.

I have a weakness for release aids. I collect them like some people collect artifacts or coins. In my shop is a crate of release aids that is shocking in its size. I would venture to say it is the most complete collection of its kind. I love their fine machining and their artistry, but most of all I love what the perfect release aid can do for my accuracy with a bow. In my experimenting, I believe I have helped keep several release companies in business.

It should not be surprising that I have gone through dozens of hunting releases over the years to see which ones I liked best. They all have something to offer and many have tempted me. But I always use the one that works best for my shooting style and my philosophy at full draw.

Every bowhunter must arrive at the choice of release aid that best fits his or her shooting style and hunting situation. But, there are certain qualities that all good hunting releases share. Keeping your choices within this framework will help you find the perfect release much quicker.

CHOOSING A HUNTING RELEASE

All of the many styles of releases on the market (hand-held thumb trigger, concho-style index trigger, wrist strap caliper, glove-style rotating tumbler and back tension) do the same thing; they unload the arrow consistently on every single shot. The style you choose depends upon what feels comfortable to you and how much control you want to have during the shot. It also depends on your ability to deal with target panic. Here are some things to consider when choosing a release style.

First, you must be able to load the release on the string quickly and securely. When you have a nice buck walking your way you may have to fight shaky hands when trying to get the release hooked up. This is the primary reason that bowhunters, as a rule, should shy away from the rope releases used by target shooters and why some bowhunters refuse to use bowstring nocking loops.

Archers who shoot regularly during the off-season and use nocking loops for all their shooting become very good at loading the release quickly. However, those that do not shoot regularly may find the loop to be a liability. For them, it slows the process of getting off the shot. Experiment with several specially designed nocking loop releases before you decide if the loop is right for you. You can do much of this experimenting at a good full-service pro shop.

Second, the hunting release should possess a head that turns freely so that you will not twist the string as you get your hand into a solid anchor position. Applying a twisting force on the string with the release aid may cause inconsistent arrow flight.

Find a release with an adjustable trigger so you can produce the perfect trigger tension for you. Generally, set your trigger for a hunting release a little heavier than for 3-D or target shooting so you can feel the trigger through heavy gloves. This assures that you will not trigger the release prematurely and that you will have a better feel for the timing of the shot – an important aspect of hunting accuracy.

Finally, all good hunting releases are simple and durable. It might make sense to experiment a little when target or 3-D shooting, but when the calendar flips to September, it is time to narrow it down to one that is bulletproof – one you can trust with the shot of a lifetime. In fact, as soon as you settle on a hunting release it’s a great idea to immediately buy a second one, set it up exactly the same and carry it in your fanny pack as a spare – just in case.

TRADING OFF THE STYLES

In this section, I’ve detailed several of the advantages and disadvantages of the various release styles on the market. I have also included my thoughts on the best way to shoot each style under hunting conditions.

Wrist strap caliper: These are the most basic, and probably the most widely used, of all release styles. Wrist strap caliper releases offer the advantage of simplicity. The mechanism that opens the jaws is very reliable and the index-finger trigger is intuitive for most hunters who started hunting with a gun. The wrist-strap helps you draw the string and hold it in a relaxed manner while you aim. With the wrist-strap, you’ll never have to worry about dropping the release during the moment of truth.

However, on the downside, it is easy to punch the trigger on most caliper releases making these the least accurate choice for archers with target panic.

How to use them: Caliper releases can be shot in a way that produces a surprise release if you make a key adjustment and then use the proper technique. First, shorten the release until the trigger hits your index finger at the joint rather than the finger tip. This will permit you to squeeze off the shot without the sensitivity of your fingertip helping you to anticipate the shot.

In other words, it is much easier for most bowhunters to squeeze off the shot when the trigger is not contacting the end of their finger. Pull through the shot with your back muscles as you increase tension with your trigger finger.

Thumb-triggered hand-held releases: Some bowhunters like thumb-triggered releases because they can snap the release onto the bowstring and leave it there until the time comes to draw the bow. This is primarily an advantage for stand hunters because the stalking hunter would quickly jar the trigger and loose the release. Thumb-triggered releases are harder to punch than index-triggered releases making them a better choice for archers who suffer from target panic. Some very good thumb-triggered releases permit ultra-fine trigger adjustment. You cock the release’s hammer and the primary trigger fires it to open the jaws. The primary trigger does not carry the weight of the draw so it does not load up and become stiff. You can set it very light.

Thumb-triggered releases have only one real downside: they can be lost more easily than wrist-strap styles. If they are not snapped onto the string they are floating around in a pocket or pack. They are not always right at hand as are the wrist-strap models.

How to use them: The best way to fire a thumb-trigger release is with your back. Invert your hand at full draw until your thumb points down and the back of your hand rests against your face. Apply the thumb to the release body so that the inside of the joint just contacts the trigger. From this position, squeeze through the shot with your back muscles as your hand naturally rotates backward and forces the trigger more firmly into your thumb. Some archers feel like they are making a fist in order to create this same effect. It is easiest to accomplish a surprise release with a thumb-triggered release if you set the trigger tension light to moderate.

Specialized releases for nocking loops: String nocking loops first gained popularity in target and 3-D circles and have now become widely accepted by bowhunters. Loops promote good arrow flight, positive peep sight rotation and long serving life. It is only natural that such benefits would be quickly embraced by bowhunters, as well. Hunters using string loops have specialized releases available to them.

Most releases for use with nocking loops are evolved index trigger releases that have a single jaw or hook that rolls out of the way on release. Some, however, are also handheld, thumb-triggered models. Most hunting models have an open design that makes it easy to load them on the loop quickly.

The only downside to release aids designed for nocking loops are those aspects of the design that are inherent to their category. For example, the index-triggered loop releases are just as easy to punch as index-triggered caliper models. The thumb-triggered loop models are slightly less natural or intuitive for archers who do not shoot regularly – just like those that attach directly to the string.

Back tension releases: Many target archers and top 3-D competitors rely heavily on back tension releases for the majority of their shooting because these models all but guarantee a surprise release. When you control the exact timing of the shot, you have a greater potential to ruin it. That is why I am always preaching about the importance of learning to make a surprise release for all your shooting. Not only do these releases produce the greatest consistency, they are also the best way I know of to beat target panic.

Most bowhunters who use back tension releases use them only during the off-season as training aids and switch back to their normal hunting models just before the season. However, some very accomplished bowhunters actually use back tension releases for hunting. There is definitely a big tradeoff here and I don’t recommend them for anyone but those bowhunters who have a hard time controlling target panic or have trouble making good shots on game.

With a back tension release, you cannot control the timing of the shot very well. That is their magic and why they work so well in eliminating target panic. But, this also makes it tough to make the shot when timing is important – which it sometimes is when hunting. Sometimes, timing is more important than hair-splitting accuracy and it is nice at these times to have a release aid you can command.

However, the bowhunters I have spoken with who favor back tension releases for hunting say that the ability to make a good shot outweighs the opportunities that get away because the shot takes too long. Once again, if you have severe case of target panic that keeps you from making good shots on game, a back tension release may be the only solution.

OTHER RELEASE STYLES

Two truly unique releases will help you conquer target panic without having to go to a pure back tension model. The Answer from Golden Key Futura features an ingenious design that will not allow the release to fire if you jerk the trigger. It locks up rather than firing. When you squeeze it slowly, however, the release works flawlessly. You can disable the anti-punch mechanism for hunting. The Can’t Punch from Bernie Pellerite (Robin Hood Videos) is a similar design with a solid, immovable dead trigger that is just in front of the moveable, live trigger. By placing your finger on the dead trigger and squeezing, you will activate the live trigger and fire the shot. Again, it is just another way to keep you from punching and ruining the shot.

Choosing a release aid is a personal matter that depends as much on the way you hunt as it does on your shooting style and how certain models feel in your hand. Take the time to experiment with various styles and then do your level best to learn to shoot the release properly. If you make a commitment to this goal, a lifetime of better shots at game will be your reward.

Sidebar: The author currently uses a Short and Sweet by TRU Ball. Here are his reasons: It is extremely well made and therefore reliable. It quickly attaches to the string loop even without looking. It has a very crisp firing mechanism that is adjustable down to a hair trigger. It is very small and doesn’t get in his way. The distance between the attachment point and the trigger is remarkably short so he can shoot a longer draw length bow. And the best reason of all is it is so fast to load that he can shoot it in the Great Outdoor Games which he competes in each year just before the hunting season so he competes with the same release aid he hunts with.

Sidebar: Tweak Your Release for Better Accuracy

The length of a wrist-strap release has a major affect on how well you shoot it. Set the release up so your finger contacts the trigger at the first joint. This single step will make a difference and will help you create an accurate surprise release.

The triggering mechanism of most releases relies upon a friction sear. The higher the draw weight (specifically the holding weight) the stiffer the trigger. In most cases, you can customize your release to the bow you shoot by simply turning an Allen wrench to increase or decrease the amount of trigger travel. Always start out with the release set too stiff and slowly turn the adjustment screw until you achieve the perfect tension. You want the release to fire easily, but not so easily that you can’t feel the trigger through your cold weather gloves before it goes off.

When comparing the trigger tension of a caliper release to that of a gun, strive for a feel that is similar to what you get with a shotgun – five pounds is realistic. Rifle-fine trigger tensions are not practical with the rough mechanisms found in most friction sear models. However, if you are using a release featuring a hammer that you cock before each shot, you can achieve a much lighter trigger tension without the fear of a misfire.

Sidebar: What is New on the Market

This table contains a short list of several of the newest releases on the market that I feel are good choices for hunting or for use as training aids.
Company Model Style Comments
TRU Ball
(800) 929-2800
www.truball.com
Short-N-Sweet Hook jaw nocking loop model or can be used with rope around the bowstring Short coupled release aid doesn’t force you to shorten your bow’s draw length, a benefit for loop shooters. It quickly attaches to the string loop without the archer looking. It has a very crisp trigger, finely adjustable. Small and svelte, doesn’t get in your way.

Scott Archery
(606) 663-2734
www.scottarchery.com New Rhino

Hook Jaw nocking loop model

Short coupled, smooth, roller sear release aid hooks up to a string loop quickly and reliably. Smooth crisp trigger pull. Minimizes draw length loss from the string loop.

Carter Enterprises
(208) 624-3467
www.releaseaid.com Two Shot

Hook jaw nocking loop model

Index finger triple sear for longevity and reliability—the first in the industry. Great versatility. Can be used with a string loop, directly off the string or with a release rope. Has built in thumb safety.

Robinhood Videos
(614) 933-0011
www.robinhoodvideos.com Can’t Punch Index trigger caliper Has a dead trigger that you pull against to keep from punching.

Tru-Fire Corp.
(920) 923-6866
www.trufire.com Hurricane HOT Index trigger caliper Stem can be set to rotate out of the way when not in use. The jaws open when you depress the trigger and close when you let up on the trigger.

Jim Fletcher Archery
(760) 379-2589
www.fletcherarchery.com .44 Caliper Interlocking jaw model Hardened trigger and roller design allows for smooth feel that is adjustable from hair trigger to heavy trigger pull.

Copper John
(315) 258-9269
www.coperjohn.com
Eagle Closed jaw nocking loop model Trigger the release with your middle finger rather than index finger, helps reduce punch tendency. Can be used like a back tension release while still giving the option of a quick release.

My taxidermists Bud and Gavin Weller from Weller’s Wildlife Studio (520) 744-3468 have mounted innumerable velvet-racked mule deer over the years. They’ve seen every possible mistake a hunter can make when caring for velvet antlers in the field. Here are their recommendations.

“From the moment the animal hits the ground, treat the antlers like fine china,” “Don’t touch them at all and get them to the taxidermist immediately. Don’t drag the buck. Get help. Let someone hold the buck’s head up when it is moved and loaded into the vehicle. Don’t drive around town showing the buck to all your buddies. There’ll be time for that after you get the mount back. Velvet is a delicate tissue and it will spoil very quickly if not treated. Heat, moisture and a lack of air circulation will spoil velvet just like it will spoil meat. Keep the velvet cool and dry. When you get the deer to the taxidermist insist on having the antlers freeze-dried. That is by far the most effective and attractive way to preserve velvet.”

I agree wholeheartedly with The Weller’s and follow their advise to the letter. Unfortunately, I do some backcountry hunts and can’t always get the rack to them in a timely fashion. Here’s what I do in those situations: I carry a small bottle of neutral buffered formalin. (This is hazardous material commonly called formaldehyde and can be hard to get. Unless you are trained in the use of this material you shouldn’t use it.)

As soon as possible after shooting the deer I make a very small hole – a tiny little X - in the tip of each point and hang the antlers upside down so any remaining blood can drain out. While the antlers are hanging I don a pair of latex gloves and gently massage the formalin into the velvet. I am extremely careful not to breathe the fumes or allow the formalin to contact my skin. I always keep Bud’s fine china analogy in mind when handling the antlers. I then get the antlers to the taxidermist as soon as possible.

Note: Formalin is a tissue preservative used to keep biopsy tissue and cadavers from spoiling. It does a great job on velvet racks by giving you a little more time to get them in without spoilage. It should only be used when no other option is available.

(30 YEARS OF HUNTING BIG MULE DEER YIELD THE AUTHOR A MULTITUDE OF LESSONS AND LATELY A FEW NICE BUCKS)

Looking back, I marvel at my first 25 years of hunting big mule deer. I combed through most of the mountain ranges of the west like an obsessed prospector. I wore out shoes and backpacks, whipped myself into great shape and discovered where to find the deer but, alas, I bagged very few good bucks. During that long stretch of time I bumbled nearly every stalk I made. To this day I have nightmares of all those huge velvet racks bouncing toward the horizon like dancers to a rhythmic beat.

I guess I needed those 25 years to slowly learn an important lesson: hunting smarter is better than hunting harder. That may seem like a cliché to you but I’m here to tell you it is the pure truth. Only during the last 5 years was I able to use the pearls of wisdom accumulated over the previous 25 to bag a few nice bucks.

I only wish I could go back now, armed with the prudence of age and the temperance borne of repeated failure. Let’s put it this way, some of those dancers wouldn’t make it to the skyline.

The concept of ‘Hunting smarter’ isn’t new to me. I think I’ve always understood it on a theoretical level. Implementing the concept however, has been the difficult part. Here are the short versions of four great hunts that took place in three states over the course of the past three years. Each serves to highlight a major milestone in my education as a mule deer hunter.

2001 COLORADO: DON’T MAKE EVERY STALK

This hunt took place on the fringe of the badlands of eastern Colorado before, during and after Thanksgiving. It was peak rut and the buck we were after would eventually pay the price for his passion.

This buck was with does that were reluctant to leave the weed-filled CRP fields they called home. CRP works well for stalking because the thick dead weeds provide great cover. However, these weeds are noisy and you have to have a strong wind to provide cover noise. Unfortunately, if there’s enough wind to cover the noise you make, it is also blowing hard enough to make shooting accurately a very difficult task. Before the hunt was over I found myself alternately praying for wind and then cursing it when it came.

I was hunting with Aaron Neilson, owner of Adventures Wild, an outfitting business on the eastern plains. We were seeing one particularly impressive buck almost every day. I had to fight back the almost overwhelming urge to go after him each time our scanning binoculars picked up his wide and heavy frame. I knew it made no sense to go after him until the wind blew a gale.

With the forecast calling for near calm conditions, Aaron and I decided to head to his house in Littleton to spent Thanksgiving Day. We didn’t bother heading back to the plains until the forecast changed. Two days later we found ourselves in a real howler, again glassing familiar surroundings. We found the big buck on the second day and made our move. The long stalk brought Aaron and me to the top of a small ridge overlooking the ravine where the deer had disappeared and were now bedded. We peered through yucca plants as the wind whipped their pointed spiky leaves back and forth over our heads. “Can you shoot?” Aaron asked.

“No.” (The wind was blowing at least 40 mph.)

“What do you mean, no? You have to shoot.”

I had already missed one shot at the buck earlier in the week on a similarly windy day, and now I was a little trigger shy. I had made a good release that day, but I still don’t know where the arrow went. I think it ended up in Kansas with Dorothy and Toto. It obviously didn’t hit the deer. Since that day I had been practicing hard whenever the wind blew. I thought I knew how far I needed to aim to the side to compensate for wind drift, but I just wasn’t sure I could hold the bow steady enough to pull off the shot.

Finally, after some hushed strategising I came up with a plan. At wind-blown 3-D tournaments we sometimes used other shooters to block the wind so our bow arms wouldn’t bounce around as much. The plan now was a take-off on that theme. Aaron would rise up on his knees and hold his jacket open like some kind of camouflage pterodactyl to break the wind as I knelt at full draw next to him. It was a radical plan to be sure, and risky. The buck was asleep with his head down, so I wasn’t worried about him. But, the does all had their heads up. That was likely to be a problem.

Aaron was only about two or three inches from my bow arm as I drew my bow and slowly rose up on my knees. There was so much wind-whipped motion in the grass and yucca around us that the does didn’t seem to notice. I shot the buck through the heart and when he jumped up he didn’t know which way to run. He collapsed 25 yards from our feet. It was a shocking conclusion to a nerve-wracking hunt.

How we handled this difficult shot is noteworthy, but that’s not the true lesson. The key to success here is something that took me many years to learn: you don’t have to make every stalk you are presented with. We watched the buck without stalking him several different times because the conditions weren’t right. We chose to wait instead of forcing a bad hand. Based on the circumstances: tough stalking conditions, a buck anchored with does and the very size of him (we weren’t likely to find another as big if we blew this one) led me to excruciating patience.

Five years ago I would have gone after him every single time I saw him, regardless of the conditions

2001 NEVADA: OLD BUCKS ARE DIFFERENT

I was hunting a huge Boone & Crockett class typical in the mountains of Nevada. He should have been dead four times. That’s how many times I’d been on him. Everything that could go wrong did go wrong. I had him at full draw once as he stood on the edge of a small opening, a single step from making a trip to my taxidermist – and onto the first page of the record book. Rather than step into the opening like he was supposed to, he skittered across so fast I couldn’t get a shot. So it went for several days until one afternoon when I saw a cougar stalking through the copse of trees I’s seen him go into that morning. I don’t think the cat had killed the buck, but he was most certainly gone. We searched the area for 2 days with no success.

Once the big typical disappeared I wasted no time in switching my focus to a smaller yet still very nice buck we had seen earlier in the season. Given the disappearance of the other buck, I decided to cut my losses rather than hold desperately to the dream of that huge typical.

Greg Krogh was hunting with me, and with his help we soon found another buck a few miles away. The buck was across a canyon. I took off around the head of the canyon to get into position on the other side while Greg stayed behind to guide me in. The big typical was traveling with four other bucks and when I started getting close Greg gave me the signal that suggested they were very close. I must have made a sound or the wind swirled or something because the entire group got edgy. They were still feeding along, but now they were lifting their heads a lot more and visibly nervous.

As they each tiptoed past I counted four bucks, all of them nice but none resembling the one I was after. He was obviously the only fully mature buck in the group and he had reacted differently to the threat of danger. He had slipped under a juniper, into some thick brush and bedded down. He began studying everything carefully. After the other bucks had passed I heeded Greg’s signals and stalked close to the buck’s bed just in time to see him sneaking away out the back door. I shot him in mid-sneak.

While it was certainly important on that hunt to know when to cut my losses, the most significant lesson the old buck reaffirmed is the fact that mature bucks are different. You can’t hunt them in the ways that you would hunt young bucks. Outside of the rut, they aren’t likely to act on impulse and make a mistake. Everything they do is slow and studied. When confronted with possible danger, they don’t show curiosity or ask questions; they simply melt away. The big typical did it in the face of the lion threat and the buck I shot did it when something in my stalk tipped him off.

To hunt big mule deer well you have to be around them enough to learn and appreciate their idiosyncrasies. Understanding their unique personalities is the only way you’ll ever be able to consistently anticipate what they’ll do next.

2002 NEVADA: CLOSER ISN’T ALWAYS BETTER

I ran hard to intercept a buck I had glimpsed moving through the junipers. I arrived just in time to set up before he came through the trees. He gave me a 3 second direct broadside shot but I passed him because his rack didn’t seem all that tall and at that angle I couldn’t see his width. Once he turned and started walking away I quickly thought better of it. From behind, that wide spreading rack looked like something from the prehistoric era.

It was a typically hot and dry late August in the desert of Nevada so my best chance for a second encounter would likely come at the community watering hole. Deer patterns in the area revolved around that small tank.

I set up my ground blind 30 to 35 yards from the waterhole because I’ve learned that mule deer have a definite comfort zone–a distance around them where they won’t tolerate anything: no movement, no noise. As you move closer their sensitivity goes up exponentially. For example, you can get away with much more than twice the movement and noise at 40 yards than you can at 20 yards. Closer is not always better.

The same principle applies when stalking. I used to try to get as close as possible when stalking deer. I remember stalking to within 8 yards of a huge buck one time. When I made my move to get a clear shot he blew out of his bed like he’d been launched. I would have shot a lot more big mule deer had I stopped my stalks at 40 yards and waited rather than pushing to get as close as I possibly could. If you’re serious about mule deer hunting, 40 yards has to be within your effective range. Learn to shoot really well from 35 to 50 yards, because that’s where the bulk your good shots are going to come.

On the third morning in the blind I shot the buck. He didn’t come in until 8:00 – more than two hours after sunrise. I was starting to get groggy from the heat and the short nights when I looked up and the buck’s 30+ inch wide rack was perfectly framed in the blind’s window. He was staring straight at the blind. I was shocked. I had cut and stacked juniper all around the blind to break up its outline but the buck still knew there was something there that didn’t quite belong. He finally came in and offered a shot, but he was very cautious. Had I set the blind closer to the waterhole like my first instinct had suggested, he most surely would have turned and left.

Once again, there are two lessons to take from this hunt. First, there are times when water will be the key to a successful early season hunt. In dry areas, water is all-important. When you arrive to hunt, make every effort to find the puddles where the local deer are watering. Historically I’ve never had the patience to sit water—I wanted to go out and kill something.

Second, closer is not always better. As mentioned, the mistake of getting too close has cost me many nice bucks through the first 25 years of my mule deer education. Sure, nothing beats a clean 20-yard broadside shot at a standing buck, but they are hard to come by. Prepare for longer shots so you will be free to make the right decisions when setting up a stalk or an ambush.

2002 ARIZONA: YOU HAVE TO BE FIT

Chad Smith and I were glassing the rim rock country of southern Arizona when we spotted four bucks: one buck was outstanding and the others weren’t too bad either. We watched as the convoy of antlers worked its way along the bottom of the main canyon before turning up a side draw. That was all we need to see. We had watched enough bucks to know they wouldn’t leave the canyon’s arm, but would likely bed on the shaded side somewhere near the top. We took our best guess and I was off.

Running, first away from the deer to get out of sight and then up through the Rim rock and across the plateau to the arm the bucks had entered, I was determined to beat them to their bed. I didn’t want to be stuck trying to stalk four bedded deer. They would definitely have the advantage in that situation. It was probably two miles around to the other side and I was really sucking wind when I slowed down to make the final approach. When I peeked over the lip of the rim rock the biggest buck was right below me pawing out his bed. I literally didn’t have a minute to spare.

I was lathered in sweat and about ready to cough up a lung, but I forced myself to get steady as I made a good release and soon claimed the 29-inch buck.

There are two lessons here too. First, I’ve learned to hate my options when dealing with bedded deer. It is much more difficult to stalk them than deer that are on their feet. As this hunt illustrates, I’ll do everything in my power, even if it means pushing myself to near exhaustion, to get to a spot where I can ambush a buck before he beds down. The classic spot-and-stalk mule deer hunt where you watch a buck all morning until you see him bed before going after him just doesn’t work for me.

Mature bucks pick their beds so danger can’t approach without detection. Given any kind of decent choices, their bed is one of the last places I want to try to stalk. Rather than waiting until they lay down, watch just long enough to figure out where they are likely to go and then get there as fast as you can. This brings us to the second lesson.

You have to be fit. Hunting mule deer usually takes place at altitude and takes a lot of effort and if you make it a priority to beat a buck to his bed you will no doubt find yourself running or at least moving fast at the start of most stalks. To do this safely and quickly you need both strength and endurance. Both are the result of a good exercise program.

If you’ve been paying attention, you’ve counted eight tips. Only the final one dealt with something physical. All the others were about strategy. Like I said at the very beginning of this article, my years of gung-ho pursuit have given way to a much more studied approach. Occasionally you do have to push hard physically, the key is to only push hard when it’s necessary.

I’ve learned that hunting smart is a lot more important than hunting hard. It’s no coincidence that it was only after learning this lesson that I started shooting the kind of bucks I’d been after all along.